train ride (about a day) from Los Mochis in Sinaloa state through the
state of Chihuahua to one of nature marvels: The copper canyon.
Los Mochis & Herbal life
Los mochis is a pretty ordinary place, just another city...
But after Baja that made me think that Mexico is a third world
country, mainly a dessert and all of the people are dark short and wide,
it was coming to a new world - actually the real Mexico.
First, the climate and the geography are different. After the Baja desert,
everything looks green and Rain is usually a daily event, even though
not in a certain hour for a short period of time as i was told, i found it
pretty chaotic.
The city looks pretty modern and has a big mix of vibe poor markets
and modern shop networks. The population seems to be a lot more
diverse than Baja, you can see tall people, white complexion, even
blond hair side by side with the Indian look. Sinaloa state is considered
by Mexicans the place with the most pretty women in Mexico.
And so far i can really agree with that, you can see amazing Pocahontas
supermodels just walking in the street. It was also a big surprise to
discover a huge old amazing park in the city and many people jogging
and doing sports. Just like home and many other modern countries.
I arrived pretty crushed, after a night of barely sleeping in the ferry
dock, so i took a day to recover. While i was walking in the street
getting some courasons and looking for a descent coffee after too long,
i saw a woman coming out from a place with a big glass in her hand.
And toughs i came to the right place, and so my herbal life experience
began. Apparently, all over the city there are little Herbal Life clubs for
special healthy products, and i was invited generously for a shake
breakfast. I couldn't say no and had to give up my greasy courasons
and stayed healthy for 2 whole days. The owner, Julieta and me were
talking about everything for the entire morning. She was practicing her
English and i my Spanish.
For my bad luck, my alarm clock stopped working in the middle of the
night and i missed the only train so had to spend another day. Julieta
and her friends were great and took me cruising in the city, trying new
food, seeing new places and just spending the time together. They are
already moms with a few kids so i pretty much felt like another kid
joining alone.
This is another really strange to me in Mexico, it seems like most of the
people i meet come from are single parents or come from these kind of
families. It really seems to me that the phenomenon is wide, and usually
the mother is the one who eventually takes care of the children. Either
because the father didn't stay, or many times the woman would not
agree to stay in a place she doesn't like.
The Copper canyon train
Finally i boarded the train to my next destination: The copper canyon.
A wonderful 9 hours ride with unforgettable views, starting with a tropical
climate, rain forest and cactuses (not only in the desert). And after
climbing up more than 2000 meters, the climate cools and the views are
turning into a Swiss Alps appearance with pines and oaks, endless water
streams, cows and horses grazing in the meadow, fresh shades of green
with many corn fields and pastel gigantic mountains. Most of the trip i
just gave up resting and stood between the carts, when where you can
feel the fresh air and the views. The train (2ND class) is modern, but
seems to stop randomly on the track with no exactly defined station and
a small chair for the passengers to get off - wild west style.
Tarahumara Indians selling their traditional crafts (more later on)
Creel
The train dropped me at Creel, a nice little town, a bit touristic but still
in a good way, and i´m very happy to be able to catch it on time before
a big international airport will be opened. pretty fast i met some fellow
travelers and went out to recover with a bear after the ride.
When i came back to the hostel i found out that the doors are locked and
nobody hears me knocking. So with no choice, i went back to the bar to
join a group of local Mexicans i met before and asked for their help.
The answer i got was: "Don´t worry we will party all night, you don´t
need to sleep". So the night kept on with drinking (no stopping, when i
pulled my glass of and didn´t want any more, the answer i got was
purring bear on me), waking up the entire city with the crazy special
Mexican shout, and squeezing 7 people into a car for a short ride for a
natural cave nearby (in such some Indians still live today).
Around 4 AM Eliden, my friend, who said before she will help me and
her friend has some rooms he rent, was drunk and stayed there, and
her friends took be to this guy´s place. We got to the house and they
knocked on the door calling the guys name, when some old man open
the door, they spoke some Spanish and then they just ran away.
I didn´t understand anything, and this guy was starting to asking me
what i was doing there and who told me to come there. Somehow i
managed to explain the situation and he said there is already someone
staying (was using all of the pillows) so i got a small couch with no
pillows, crashed for 3 hours comforted by an old nice dog.
The next day, everything became clear. Eliden came and took me to
the same house again when i met her friend. Apparently he was not T
home and the guy was his father. We got some bikes and went for some
field riding to see the surroundings. The area is characterized by a very
unusual rock formations, dense pine forest and open green meadows.
This guys just great, they knew nature by heart, Especially mushrooms.
The conditions are ideal for mushrooms to evolve and every time they
go out they discover new types. After our trip Eliden invited me for a
traditional Mexican meal and cooking the mushrooms. I was really
grateful and wanted to invite her for dessert, but then i found out that
her family actually owns the local cakes and sweets shop, and she spoiled
me so bad with great things. Got to have friends in the right places!
Thanks Eliden for everything!
.........Ediblegs...........................drugs (other people)....
What i liked most about Creel was the great mix i experienced with
having Mexicans friend and an international travelers of the good kind.
We just hanged out together, hiking in the area, bar hoping, basically
making party happening wherever we went.
I dragged my french friend Cloe for climbing Creel rocks, with the help
of Mario, our hotel manager and a friend who was an Alpinist in the
past. This was the first time in my life that i was really afraid doing
that. I got to lead and set the security rope which i have never done
before. Since the area is exposed to extreme erosion - a lot of rain and
snow, the rocks are constantly changing. When i was climbing, suddenly
a huge bolder got loose and i held it with my hands shouting for the
others to take cover and then let it go.
Batopilas
I have been looking for a serious trek in the area so i can better feel
nature with my legs. Etienne (French) joined me for the adventure.
We heard about a 3 days trek, crossing one of the deep canyons, so
we went to Batopilas (an isolated town, 5 hours on dirt road from
Creel) to gather information. This is a quiet little town (everything
closes at 21:00), lying between a ridge and a river, it´s length is 3km
and it´s characterized by very narrow streets. During the
"Silver rush" this was an important spot and it was the second place
in Mexico connected to electricity.
It was quite hard to get information and took a lot of effort and time.
It was hard to meet the right people, not many people know the way,
many contradict each other, no maps available and the only Internet
at town was broken for a month. So basically we waited for
something good to happen and toured the surrounding with another
French companion,Guy, a true iron men, this guy came there with
his bikes (2km descent) and has been all over in competitions.
And pretty soon the answer came. Walking in the center plaza,
suddenly someone was waving and calling me from the city
municipality building. I was thinking, oh no, what now?
But it was Laura, a girl to i met back at Creel in a bar (barely
spoke). She is an Antorphology student, working on projects for
the aid of the local Indians, such as building water reservoirs and
high efficiency stoves.
Laura offered us to join her and go to Monerachi, an Indian village, 5-6 hours walk and look for a guide for our trek over there. So we gladly accepted the offer and together with two other guys that were joining her, Michael (Germany) and Rodolfo (Mexico) we went on our way (i will tell about them next time, staying in their living room now).
The Monerachi adventure
After waiting to the right time to start our journey - 12:00 (The guys
had to fix the car for the entire morning) we went on the way. It was
so hot and moist, and Michael and i had to carry most of the equipment
the others couldn´t. After 5 hours of a lot of up hill, crossing rivers
through water or narrow bridges, we didn´t even get to our destination
and stopped in one of the villages to camp and were hosted for dinner
by a local family.
The following morning, 2 hours more, and we got to our destination:
"Monerachi" an indian Tarahumara village. Around 30 simple mud
houses spread on a relative wide area, and a bit modern and grand
school and church in the center.
We were given the kindergarden room that were not in use (summer
vacation) and we lived the next 5 days there (my bed was a big door),
mainly relaxing, trying to learn a little bit about the culture, enjoying the
gigantic pastel mountains with every look you take, cooking our meals
(mainly Tortias and beans) on campfire in basic conditions, showering
in the river, failing in fishing (The method of fishing is based on a long
net with a person in each side. You tie the net to your hand and leg,
swim in the river, make a loop and capture the fish).
One of the days we decided to hike to the top of the mountain and
asked Antonio, a 17 years old teenager to guide us. The views up were
indescribable. In the early morning everything was covered with clouds
and gave the fealing of literaly climbing to the sky. Later on massive
ridges and canyons were coming out of the smoky clouds in the horizon,
like magic!
While we, white people, were sweating like pigs, walk very clumsy on
the narrow trail and drank water all the time, this kid was barely
sweating and lightly going his way up on his traditional sandals, without
the need to drink. Later we discovered the amazing fact that he
participated in the Copper canyon marathon: running 75km in
mountanous terrain.
A little background about the Tarahumara:
In their language they are called "raramuri"- runners on foot.
They have an incredible ability to run amazingly long distances (more
than 100km). In old times they used to chase animals until they got
tired and then hunt them. More amazing stuff about this extraordinary
ability (I highly recommend): Link
Today the Tarahumara count arround 70,000 people, and live in the
north of Mexico mainly in the copper canyon area (they were driven
there by the Spaniards). They mainly sustain themselves by growing
corn, beans and Livestock. To me what made them so special was their
colorful appearance, their humbleness and simple living and their unique
featured faces that made me feel in a different world (the new world).
Actually i was embarrased to mention it, but i asked myself for a
moment: if i´m in Mexico or Mongolia ??? (by the faces, narrow eyes
and the language). Later i discovered that the theory for human history
in America claim that in the last ice age, people migrated from Asia on
an ice bridge over the bering sea to America. Furthermore, i was told
that asian scholars found great similarity between Asian and Raramuri
languages and can actually understand some words (though haven´t
found any documents about that).
Epiphanio - the most kind and inocent man
Some more (less plesant stuff):
1. Marijuana - These days the sorth of Mexico has become a center for
growing and trafficing drugs into the US. We actually saw a few
Marijuana fields (i was told also Opium) while we were climbing the
mountain, hiden well in the dense rain forest. We were told that once
every half a year drug trafficers come with a plane and buy the produce
from the people. A moderate field produces in a year arround 100kg and
they get 100$ for a kilo, so in total 10,000$. For an Indian family, this is
a lot of money, and also no effort. The man just has to pland and
harvest and go occasionaly to his hidden field to monitor. It is a shame
to see this cause in my opinion this help will eventually destroy their
unique culture.
2. Since we were stupied enough not to take enough water (first time i
didn´t take a spares), pretty dehidrated, we had to drink from a stream,
which might have been the cause for 3 of us get an infection.
3. Towards the end, i really got the feeling that some people (only
specific ones) were looking at us as big wallets, and also my head torch
was stolen, so it was time to go.
4. Most of the time i saw great inequality between woman and men.
It seemed like the weman were working so hard, making flower from
the corn (a lot of physical stages), taking care of the kids, many times
working in the fields. The man seemed pretty relaxed and bored most
of the day.
Colera ?????? (Not for the weak hearted)
After a few days away of civilization, we all got back exshausted with a
Robinzon Cruzo look to Mario´s hotel, my base at creel. But just as i was
thinking about my next steps, things started go wrong. Feeling
completely poisoned, i had a night which i remember as a big nightmare
holusination. Being half awake, half asleep, high temperature and severe
stomach cramps, i had to visit the restroom arround 20 times since this
thing started till the next morning. Every little sip of water came out 2
minutes after. In the morning i was completely dehydrated and new that
something is really wrong.
Accompanied by my friend Etienne we went to the local clinic to seek
help. I was laid down on a metal table (reminded me visits to the vet
with my dog) and the doctor examined me, looked pretty suprised and
unsecured.
Colera he said (this is the suspicion).
I just couldn´t beleive what i heard. Isn´t it a dark medival desiease
that killed milions ? I was sent for a test and gladly for me, could only
do it in the nearest hospital.
So i was waiting for a while, and Etienne dissapered and i was starting to
think where the hell did it go with my medical papers. Soon enough he
came out from the doctors entrance after visiting the manager of the
hospital and getting a specialist to know about my case. This guy was
amazing and it was like that the whole time.
The doctors were prety surprised by the suspicion and though
couldn´t rule it out, had some better gusses and asked to hospitalize me.
Now i was starting to feel a little insecure, do i really want to get
hospitalized in a small state when i don´t know anything about the
conditions? But despite all, because of my condition i decided to stay and
upgrade if there is a need. Also the doctors promise that i´m in good
hands really made the difference.
So i was taken to the exam room, and with the help of my friend Etienne
communicated with the doctor and in the end she was waving with an
exam stick. As soon as i saw this, darkness filled my eyes and
immediately said NO!
She said YES.
So I Said Oh NO NO NO, So she responded YES YES YES.
She won ;(
Lucky for me it was a hot young female doctor ;)
I never imagined i will have to wear a hospital dress with an open back
and go through a prison experience. Etienne was asked to be in the
room while i´m behind the curtain and translate, but he was busy mainly
with laughing at me. It was really strange and funny the same time,
for example, the doctor was saying, ok now i´m going to touch you.
And then he translated, i´m going to touch you. And i was thinking, i
really need to get the hell out of here.
I got into the department and got a constant IV of liquids and IV of 2
types of anti-biotics 3 times a day.
Soon enough Colera was ruled out, and the next day i felt a lot better.
Doctor Perla (who became a friend), a nice beautiful doctor came and
asked me to call her whenever i go to the toilets to look at my buisness.
Again ofcourse i said NO, it just didn´t seem right.
She said Yes.
Oh No No No !
Yes Yes Yes !
This time i won and only let the nurses enjoy this wonderfull work.
Etienne was asked to stay over night, and lucky for him the bed next
to me was free - There is nothing this guy won´t do for a free bed
(Usually when there is no room, people sleep under the pacient´s bed
- The best recipe for getting an illness). I have no words to express my
gratitude for his friendship and help. He helped with all of the translation,
bought things i needed, but mainly together we never stop choking to
death of laughing.
For example, the day after a limping scary nurse came and told him in
Spanish that she is going to shower me soon. I ordered him to tell her
no way, i will do it alone. So he was saying that he doesn´t know how to
translate it and have to go - and you call this friendship.
Eventually i just went and did it alone.
He is a really exeptional guy. Worked for quite some time and want to
live his life in the form if traveling, so he has a tight budjet that he follows
and planning to do it for 15 years more. We are very much the opposits
in so many ways (for example he is a pacificist), so many times it was
hard and we were getting on each other nerves, but that what made our
partnership so interesting and made me test my philosophy and values
all the time and eventually everything was solved with humor.
After 2 days, it seems like thigs are getting better but i was asked to stay
for another week to get the results of my tests (which i haven´t got yet).
So it really held me back, but i needed that to recover. So i went to
Mario´s hostel, was mainly doing nothing, and for three days in a row
organizing with Mario, his family and the other guests huge meals.
They were always carrying very much, and tried to make me feel like
home and help as much as they can in this period of recovering.
You really feel you are in the right place when you see that the Indians
come there to stay over night - not only turism (Mario helps
them a lot with meals and prices)
I can really say i made the right decision ! and have mainly good things
to say. The doctors were extremely kind and carrying and some of them
became great friends (Roberto, Perla and Evodio). I really felt a very
positive human attitude and kept in the picture all the time. I say this
on the contrary to Israel were my main experience was cold doctors that
were treating cases and not people (maybe it was because i´m a
foreighner, but can´t really tell).
Other than that, the hospitsal is not modern and does not compare to
Israeli hospital standards, but was kept pretty clean, everything was
sterile and disposable, not too crowded (3 people in one room) and i had
general good professional impression. The only main problem was the
toilets. Since in Mexico you can´t flush paper due to unsutable
infrastructure, it was pretty absurd to see such a source of disease
inside a hospital.
I have a special appreciation for the doctor that was treating me, Dr
Evodio Rodriguez, who was the nicest doctor i have ever met. He was
an expert for this kind of things and real idealist that dedicated many
years of his life for the aid of the Tarahumara people, living in their
villages sometimes for the lights of candles alone. What can i say, exactly
the kind of doctor i would like to treat me.
After a few more stops (coming next) i came back to the hospital and
discovered that i actually don´t have new information, so first it
seemed like a terrible waist of time, but it allowed me to spend some
time with my doctor friends. Perla (after 40 hours with no sleep) and
Roberto took me to fill a cooler with bear, and we stopped somewhere,
started drinking, dancing and get crazy, hoping the police will not pay a
visit.
Later on, we bumped into Evodio over dinner who invited me to stay
at his house. He really suprised me as we entered his car saying: "ok,
lets put some noise" and heavy metal rock was playing all over, such a
contrast to his pleasant personality. This guy was absolutely great and
gave me a 5 stars hosting. What can i say, just can´t thank enough for
everything.
Randy
One of the days as i was walking in the street i heard some automatic
fire in the air. I couldn´t even imagen it is right cause this was such a
pleasant place and tried to convinced myself it is something else. Panic
was seen in the streets as people were closing their shops and cars
jamming the roads. A big problem in north Mexico is the drug trafficing
and the different groups are fighting each other, but very rarely inocent
people are getting hurt. Sadly this was the case where 14 people got
killed, most civilians including children. What can i say, suddenly it
didn´t feel so far away from home. We have our problems and them
theirs.
The day after, i met Randy at a grand hostel dinner and after a night of
drinking with all (including a brother of a person who got killed, who was
killing a tequila), Randy invited me to come with him to Chihuahua city
and i gladly accepted. it seems like a good idea to get away.
Randy, a 50+ years old American, a human rights activist, married to
Sugraria (Mexican), a successful contamporary dancer (who is also a
great cook) and they live in Mexico for 16 years.
Randy is one of a kind, an angel that fights for the rights of the
Tarahumara indians often with extremely low salary and sometimes with
taking risks. For example, some of his great acts were stopping the
logging (cutting trees) companies which are often run by mafia groups
(killing is a common tool for them) and destroy the natural forest on the
expense of the tarahumara. He organized them walking into the
parlament and blocking activity till the corrupted governament will
stop the logging. Sadly, the Indians have been and still are appressed
since the time of the Spaniards.
He is also man of the book, highly intelligent and i can honestly say i
learned a lot from him. An inocent question about who was Pancho Villa,
and i got a 1000 page book homework. Well...i took a shortcut and got a
lighter book with a wide view of Mexican history, in particular the
revolution. I haven´t read enough but my impression is "Chaos". Too
many dictators, too many rebels, too many people who think they are
better than the others (well, reminds me of home a little bit these days).
Ramon
Randy introduced me to one of his friends, Ramon, who lives in a small
farm in Santa Izabel close to the city (famos all over Mexico for unique
popsticles (Artik) such as Guyava, Avocado, Jamaica and more). He is a
deeply paitoned environmentalist. For his living he builds special houses
with techniques for heat conervation such as double walls and spherical
shapes (heating is barely necessary). He also run a radio show about
environmental issues with his wife. He called Randy and told him to open
the radio and then send regards to his friend from Israel like 5 times,
pretty funny (i don´t see this happen in Israel).
Ramon invited me to join his family in the farm for a day. It was really
nice, feeling family with his 4 sons and me and him cooking dinner
for all (Halot of Shabat), hiking a bit in the area where there is wild life
(even Pumas) and sacred caves for the Apache Indian tribe (Story of
Jeronimo if you remember but today sadly all we know is a helicopter)
It is really funny funny to see him, an extremely hyperactive man,
always talks, hosts people, dreams and doing something, and exactly
the opposite his 4 kids who are quite relaxed and cool all the time.
